Bali - Christmas with a completely different twist

In 2025, the time had come - Christmas and New Year's Eve in Bali, far away from rain, grey days, gift consumption, just to relax and unwind.

I'm lucky that my parents are the perfect travel companions; they're up for pretty much anything, eager to absorb new experiences and able to find joy in even the smallest things. So why not celebrate Mom's birthday in Bali?

The journey there, however, shouldn't be underestimated. I organized a lot from home beforehand: paid the tourist tax, registered the IMEI, linked the visa to my passport online... and made sure I had plenty of tropical mosquito repellent (really, really important), as I knew it gets very busy in December and, after an 18-hour flight with a layover at a completely overcrowded Abu Dhabi airport, we didn't want to spend hours and hours on immigration formalities. And that was a really smart move, because basically everything went smoothly – even though I needed a little help with my passport, as the scanner simply wouldn't read it.

You emerge from the over-air-conditioned airport with your luggage and are suddenly hit by humid heat and the familiar airport noise. Phew, time to take a deep breath and find our driver. That went surprisingly well, too. What I had completely overestimated was the traffic. According to Google Maps, our first hotel was only 40 km away, but still, it was a 2.5-hour drive. It quickly became clear that we wouldn't be renting a car or taking a scooter. We'd rather organize a driver through the Balinese Uber and arrive safely. By the way, I had already installed Gojek and Grab Indonesia beforehand; they work perfectly for drivers, food, etc. We also bought a SIM card outside the airport, not at the airport. It costs at most half the price, is installed quickly on-site, cheaper than any eSIM, and the network works flawlessly on Bali and the islands of Nusa Lembongang, Cenningan, and Penida.

Ubud

It seems like everyone's heard of Ubud, and that's exactly where our vacation started. We had two small bungalows for a few days, nestled in a rice paddy, complete with a pool. My parents were initially skeptical when the driver stopped on the completely jammed main road. They thought, "So this is where it's supposed to be?" No way. Luckily, they quickly discovered that we only had to walk a few meters to find ourselves in an idyllic paradise. Exactly as you'd imagine it: Balinese architecture, rice paddies, toads, flowers, and...mosquitoes. And I mean really, really lots of mosquitoes, as if they were just waiting for fresh meat.

The bungalows at Villa Nini were beautiful; we could immediately breathe a sigh of relief, especially after a very long and therefore tiring journey. In the evening, we simply walked to a warung (local eatery) and ordered our first Balinese meal using gestures... simply wonderful. Incidentally, we withdrew cash from an ATM on the way to the hotel using our card; no need for complicated currency exchange with exorbitant fees at the airport or even in Germany.

From Ubud we took several tours, but always with our own driver. I'm a fan of being able to react spontaneously and do "my own thing".

 The following day, we went to the Kayon Jungle Resort for my mother's birthday... OH MY GOD, it was simply indescribable. You walk into the lobby and are greeted by a breathtaking view, and the staff is incredibly wonderful. I had rented two cabanas for the day, all-inclusive, and reserved a table in the restaurant for the evening, complete with birthday cake. Honestly, the cake was unbelievably good; we ate it for three days. Dinner wasn't really necessary because we ate so much throughout the day, each dish more delicious than the last. Since we hadn't even used up our entire budget there, our waiter was kind enough to give us a bottle of port wine to take home, as you can't get a refund or use it as a tip. It certainly wasn't the cheapest day, but it's definitely one we'll remember forever. My mother had a very special birthday, and that was exactly the goal.

Other excursions took us to Akasha Coffee, where we got up at 4 a.m. to see the sunrise. Well, that was the theory. In practice, it was the rainy season and we saw a lot of...fog. The café itself has a very special atmosphere, definitely worth a visit, but the food and drinks weren't anything special, and they were particularly expensive.

Later on, we visited a coffee plantation, in the rain of course, but it was still incredibly beautiful and atmospheric. We had originally planned to visit a temple and a waterfall near Ubud to participate in a purification ritual. However, since the temple was completely overcrowded and the people there were aggressive, we quickly changed our plans and simply stopped at a virtually unknown waterfall along the way. My dad and I climbed in, Mom was the photographer, and that too was a fantastic experience in the rain. I know many people think the rainy season only means short showers. That can be true, but unfortunately, we had more like hours-long downpours, so definitely remember to pack a raincoat or umbrella. Nearby, there was an unknown rice plantation where you can simply stroll around for a very small donation. Perhaps it's all less impressive than the famous rice paddies, that may well be true, but when you see hundreds of tour buses there, well, it quickly became clear to us that bigger isn't always better, at least not for us, and thankfully Bali offers alternatives.

 On Christmas Eve, we went to Taman Dedari. It was all over Instagram at the time, and I was nervous about whether it was really as breathtaking as it seemed or just another hype. Spoiler alert: it was even better. Enormous statues, delicious food, friendly staff, a wonderful atmosphere, and then there was the sunset. I'd definitely go back anytime. The same goes for Merlins, a restaurant right in Ubud. Everything is magically designed, and you feel like you're in another world. So definitely go there too.

Since it was supposed to be a vacation and not a to-do list, we often just spent the day by the pool, ordered food delivery, and relaxed. Incidentally, this works really well with the apps; someone arrives on their scooter in the pouring rain, puts on a poncho, and brings you your food. In retrospect, it feels like a vacation, but also almost decadent. We declined specific tours to see the monkeys out of respect for the animals and for animal welfare reasons.

Nusa Cenningan

After many impressions in Ubud and the surrounding area, we set off from the port of Sanur to Nusa Cenningan for a few days. The journey was straightforward and enjoyable...my father even saw some dolphins from the boat.

You land at the port of Nusa Lembongan, if you can call it that. Nevertheless, everything was well-organized, and we were quickly picked up and taken to the Yellow Bridge. This bridge connects the two islands and was temporarily closed at the time, so we had to walk across it. No problem at all; it really is less than three minutes. We stayed at the Wooden Beach Hotel, right on the beach with a pool, and had two beautiful rooms with a partial ocean view. Including breakfast, it was less than €18 per room. I'd especially like to emphasize how incredibly warm, welcoming, and friendly the atmosphere was.

Cenningan is pleasantly quiet, perfect for beautiful walks, with great restaurants right on the beach serving excellent food. It's a place where you can truly unwind – just what you need after Ubud. One evening, during a stroll, we discovered a fantastic viewpoint and enjoyed the sunset all to ourselves. It would certainly be safer to ride a scooter here than in Bali. On New Year's Eve, we watched the fireworks from the pool, both on the islands and even in Bali – a truly special atmosphere.

What wasn't so great, unfortunately, was that we had booked a tour because I really wanted to swim with manta rays – in a way that respected their natural habitat and wasn't crowded, so naturally, we opted for a private tour. Unfortunately, it quickly became clear AFTER we set off that we wouldn't see any, even though we had been told beforehand that it was the perfect time. Oh well, I did see turtles and some amazing fish, which is never boring.

Nusa Penida

From Cenningan we took a boat to Nusa Penida, the largest of the three islands, much more touristy, but also with some better infrastructure. The journey to our bamboo houses was quite long, however, as huge potholes made progress difficult; it was quite an adventure.

We stayed at Atuh Forest and it is absolutely recommendable; exceptional location in the middle of nature, breathtaking views, incredibly good food and away from tourist centers.

 From there, we took a day trip with a driver. In retrospect, I can say it was all worth seeing, but much of it was overhyped. We went to Kelingking Beach in pouring rain, completely overcrowded, hordes of people, even though we arrived before most of the day-trippers from Bali. Everywhere it's all about Instagram; everyone wants to take the perfect photo of you for a fee. It was very exhausting and meant that the place unfortunately didn't get to experience its special atmosphere. The same thing happened at Broken Beach, Angel's Billabong, and the stairs to Diamond Beach. Which is a shame, because the places themselves are truly beautiful. But I hardly had a chance to see anything myself, because the stairs were packed with influencers who blocked the way for ages until they got the right photo.

The highlight of the day was a trip to Tembeling Beach, even though the journey there is quite an adventure. You sit on the back of a rickety scooter and it's a fast, three-kilometer downhill ride through the jungle. Mud and rocks—the drivers don't seem to care. Once you reach the bottom, you have to climb what feels like a million steep steps, but what awaits you there is worth every step. There's a small freshwater lake right on the beach where you can swim and watch the waves. There's a swing, a white sandy beach, and, what was especially wonderful for us after all the crowds, the beach is deserted. You feel like Robinson Crusoe. If I ever come back here, I'll spend the day there, at least during low tide. We were there during high tide, so the waves weren't big enough for swimming.

In my opinion, Penida is completely overcrowded and can spoil the fun for those seeking peace and quiet. If you have a few days to spare, I recommend our accommodation, as the food is excellent and you can walk to Atuh Beach.

Uluwatu

We were only here for one night, and what can I say? We were simply unlucky. Our hotel, Made 02 Balangan Homestay Villas, was a real disaster. In the restaurant—if you could even call it that—the cook was shirtless, his sweat dripping into the food. Completely unmotivated and disorganized young people were there, demonstratively unwilling to lift a finger. We weren't expecting luxury, but in my room, the bathroom was almost completely black with mold, and it stank so badly that sleep was impossible. For Balinese standards, it was actually quite expensive.

Luckily, there was a great restaurant opposite with an outstanding breakfast, so at least the morning wasn't a complete disaster.

We were only there because we absolutely wanted to see Ben Böhmer live at Savaya Bali. The club itself is visually stunning: bars, dance floor, sun loungers, infinity pools—everything you could want. However, if you're not prepared to pay several thousand euros for VIP tables, you have two small bars available on the lower levels. One had only a few wooden stools, which was unacceptable for my parents, who are retired; the other was quite alright, right by the pool.

What was quite surprising was that it's a very exclusive, expensive club, and ALL the cushions, even the VIP ones, were completely soaked during the rainy season, so you had to sit on plastic bags. The prices there far surpass those of German clubs, the staff is condescending—we weren't VIPs, after all. We personally found the clientele repulsive: utterly arrogant nouveau riche who took themselves incredibly seriously. Everyone was basically only interested in themselves and videos for social media; only VIPs were allowed on the dance floor. So we stood on a staircase and had to enjoy the music.

The pools look very nice in general, but the bars are integrated into them, so from about 11 pm onwards, guests drunkenly fall into the water and vomit. Spoiler alert: we didn't go swimming.

Sanur

From Uluwatu I went to Sanur. I had to make several attempts to find a driver because they weren't willing to pay the price shown in the app. The important thing is to stay calm and keep looking; there's someone out there who will happily honor the agreement.

Initially, the Tropical Bali Hotel was a bit difficult to find, as the road leading there is little more than a dirt track. The hotel itself is beautifully designed. Unfortunately, it's surrounded by a very high wall, which can make you feel somewhat confined. The staff is professionally friendly, and a laundry service is reliably available for a very reasonable price. The grounds, pool, etc., were well-maintained and clean, but the gargoyle was incredibly loud, making you feel like you were in a car wash.

Since we were a bit fed up with the same breakfast everywhere, I had something delivered for us: warm marzipan croissants, eggs Benedict, bagels with avocado, so perhaps decadent, but soooo good.

What was especially lovely was that we could take a fantastic walk from the hotel to the black sand beach, partly in the rain, of course. It was deserted – and, like every beach and river in Bali at that time of year, littered with trash due to the rainy season. Because of this, we didn't go swimming; you could practically see the bacteria waiting for you. We walked to the harbor first. That's when my parents realized: "Wait a minute, we've been here before!" Right, only this time without having to pick up tickets, find the right boat, and so on. On the other side is the white sand beach with its many small bars and stalls along the promenade. It has a wonderful atmosphere because, as soon as you leave all the tourists behind, a normal, everyday hustle and bustle takes over, which you can simply immerse yourself in. We drank delicious iced chocolate, goofed around, and took a deep breath. We even walked into the pedestrian zone. The atmosphere there is completely different. Everyone tries hard to force you into their shop – very annoying. We bought our souvenirs in a quiet shop because it was the only saleswoman on the whole street who was simply unobtrusively friendly. On the way back to the hotel, we naturally had our second iced chocolate.

Sanur is probably not the perfect place for people seeking peace and quiet. It's very crowded, with some almost pushy vendors, lots of traffic, and it seems like almost everyone is selling the same things, just like in other tourist areas in other countries. However, it's definitely worth a visit.

Sukawati

Sukawati is the opposite of Ubud, Uluwatu, and Sanur: vast rice paddies, everyday life, hardly any tourists—exactly what we were looking for for a few days. We had a private villa with a garden, and there was also a pool at the Mandala Desa.

The welcome was bumpy but warm, everything was lovingly arranged and designed in Balinese style, and the dinner was once again excellent.

I had specifically booked something for three adults, but unfortunately there was only a double bed and a small sofa bed, which might be suitable for small children. Nevertheless, my dad decided to go ahead with it; swapping wasn't an option for him, for which I'm truly grateful, because I slept terribly the entire holiday.

I spent a day in Seminyak while my parents relaxed there – at least that was the plan. What we hadn't anticipated, of course, was that the fields were being worked and a noisy tractor was operating right next to the pool all day. That's the "downside" of being briefly part of everyday life.

What was really annoying was that it rained inside during the night; Dad's bed was wet, and while the staff seemed to acknowledge it, the German owner didn't feel compelled to do anything about it. My follow-up email was met with mansplaining and condescension. That definitely spoiled the atmosphere. Nevertheless, we had a wonderful time there.

Seminyak

I was there alone for a day because I got a tattoo at Lumina Tattoo.

Seminyak greets you with hustle and bustle, mass tourism, and an overabundance of options, yet simultaneously with a great zest for life. Unlike in Sanur and Ubud, the people simply radiated joy; no one aggressively tried to sell you something. Instead, it just seemed like a vibrant place, which definitely has its own appeal.

Lumina Tattoo is amazing. At first, you might think it's a mass-production operation, but the opposite is true. I booked an appointment and made a deposit from Germany, discussed the designs, etc., and was pleasantly surprised by how well-organized they are.

The tattoo artists all have their own style and are true professionals, with international awards. I ended up with Ozzy, a super cool and relaxed guy who only needed six hours instead of ten and delivered the perfect tattoo – thank you so much!

One experience that made me smile: I was one of the few women there at the time and wondered why all these huge, athletic Australians were walking around with foil wrapped around their arms, legs, etc., before getting tattooed. Numbing cream. I'm serious, numbing cream. A completely new concept for me.

Animal welfare

On every trip I take, I am prepared for this issue; that is, I have the numbers of organizations, veterinarians, etc. in the area saved in my mobile phone beforehand.

First of all, I didn't see any violence or cruelty towards animals there, quite unlike in countries like Morocco, Zanzibar, or even Santorini. You're always surrounded by stray dogs, though it's not always clear whether they truly have no home. Very few of them are in really bad shape; none of them are pushy or aggressive, but rather timid and withdrawn. I didn't really think about why.

From conversations with other travelers, I know that things must be very bad in places like Lovina—where we had originally planned to go, but I ended up changing my booking. Lombok and other Indonesian islands are said to treat dogs very cruelly, so I removed them from my list. I'm fully aware that one person alone can't help all the animals, but after some experiences, I can no longer emotionally cope with being constantly confronted with this. There are various animal welfare organizations in Bali, and people are trying to control the numbers through spaying and neutering. Even though I didn't witness any cruelty, seeing stray animals everywhere was still upsetting, but everyone has to decide for themselves whether that's acceptable or not.

Food & Activities

As for the food: it was good everywhere, really everywhere, especially the peanut sauce. I once ordered delivery and just picked out a variety of dishes. In the end, we had 14 meals for under six euros. One of them was a soup with chicken feet in it; I probably should have Googled what that was beforehand.

Similar to Thailand, they have spicy fruit salads here, and I mean really spicy, but incredibly delicious, try it yourself.

There's an endless number of possible activities, whether active, yoga, water sports, quad biking, cultural, religious – it's all there. But if you want to travel peacefully and mindfully, I'd recommend seeking out the non-touristy alternatives. They exist everywhere, perhaps less spectacular at first glance, but definitely unique.

From woman to woman

I never felt unsafe in Bali, neither alone nor with my parents. Aside from some aggressive sales tactics, people leave you alone, are reserved, and peaceful. People are generally always careful with their valuables, so this is also true here, especially in crowds.

What I completely underestimated was the issue of sleep. No matter how nice, cheap, expensive, or whatever the accommodation was, sleep was out of the question. Around 1 a.m., the roosters start crowing—yes, plural—and around 10 p.m. during the rainy season, the bullfrogs also begin. I'm not talking about a single cute frog, but more than 50 , and they keep croaking until sunrise. So, if you're similarly sensitive to noise, you should consider bringing earplugs—I can't sleep with them on—or definitely avoid traveling to Bali during the rainy season.

Don't want to travel that far? Here's a link to Italy.

You can find more about my books and projects here: → Sina Maré (Author)

If you're interested in the emotional aspects of travel: → Healingways