A journey with mixed feelings.

Rio Celeste – turquoise water, black snakes and pure nature

 The Rio Celeste and its national park are among my absolute favorite highlights in Costa Rica. But even getting there was an adventure: A 100 km drive in Costa Rica can easily take several hours – due to winding roads, roadworks, and enormous potholes. The magnificent scenery, however, almost always makes up for it.

Our accommodation was a simple wooden cabin right by small lakes Rincon verde – secluded, quiet, with a nice host (who unfortunately didn't speak English) and a typical Costa Rican breakfast: rice, black beans, and an egg. It was exciting at first, but eventually you start to crave a change.

 From there it's only 12 km to the Rio Celeste, but almost impossible without an SUV or four-wheel drive – it took us over 30 minutes. At some points I really thought my navigation app wanted to leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Arriving at the park, we were pleased to find few visitors – perhaps due to Covid. We spent several hours there. The hike is quite manageable (my mother, at 71, did wonderfully). Sturdy shoes, water, and insect repellent are essential. The deep green jungle landscape, the enormous plants, the breathtaking waterfall in intense turquoise – the feeling of awe and authenticity in nature is hard to describe.

 A guide would have been helpful: others were able to take great animal photos with their spotting scopes and smartphones. Luckily, we were able to briefly join a nice couple from Austria and managed to photograph tortoises and even an eagle.

The encounter with a two-meter-long black snake – right in front of us on the path – was a real adrenaline rush. My mother jumped back in a panic. Luckily, it (the snake!) was harmless.

 After the park, a dip in the water is worthwhile: Just 1 km away, you can park at a bend in the road and jump into the turquoise river – wonderfully refreshing! Lunch at the roadside snack bar was decent, but dinner at the accommodation was really good.

A walk through the adjacent organic cocoa plantation, the sight of toucans and orchids, and the absolute peace and quiet made this day an unforgettable experience.

Arenal volcano, baby vipers and a fiasco with La Ceiba

 From Rincón Verde we drove towards the Arenal volcano. The drive was – as is almost always the case in Costa Rica – an adventure: huge potholes, narrow roads, construction sites and even some incredibly cute coatis right by the roadside.

Our accommodation, the Arenal Observatory Lodge & Spa, was one of the most expensive, but definitely worth the money. From the bed, you have an unobstructed view of the volcano – at least theoretically, as it was shrouded in thick clouds during our stay. The restaurant offers a breathtaking panorama of Lake Arenal and the volcano. The food looked great, but the portions were rather small – you wouldn't necessarily feel full after eating it.

 In the evening we watched a beautiful sunset – be sure to bring warmer clothes and rain gear, the weather can change quickly. The next day we hiked about 12 km through the adjacent park: tropical rainforest, waterfalls, suspension bridges, a baby viper (!) and an incredible variety of plants. All in all, an absolute highlight of our trip.

 Our next stop was the La Ceiba Tree Lodge – unfortunately, a complete disappointment. The access road was adventurous and poorly maintained, the room was small, only moderately clean, Wi-Fi was unavailable, breakfast was minimal, and simply disappointing for the price. Dinner was "suddenly" unavailable, so we had to set off again – 6 km in pitch-black darkness.

 We had a really good meal at Restaurante y Marisquería Montaraz and enjoyed another magnificent sunset. The next morning we continued on to Monteverde.

Monteverde – Jungle, frustration and a touching rescue

The drive to Monteverde was – as always in Costa Rica – a real adventure: steep switchbacks, huge potholes, and coatis suddenly crossing our path. Our accommodation, a small, stylish cottage at the Tityra Lodge, was really lovely, but so cold at night that even extra blankets didn't help.

Dinner there was unfortunately terrible, but we were in good spirits and looking forward to the recommended "Night Walk" at Kinkajou. Spoiler alert: Don't bother! The "jungle" turned out to be a landscaped property where several groups were milling about noisily. Instead of a wildlife encounter à la National Geographic, it was a kind of night zoo with a tarantula, an armadillo, a scorpion, and a tree snake – not exactly magical, but very expensive. On top of that, there was an aggressive mask mandate, which was imposed insensitively on my 71-year-old mother. The whole thing felt more like mass tourism with headlamps.

The next day we left early – a little disappointed, but richer for the experience. What really saved the stay, however, was that two abandoned animals – a puppy and a kitten – were lovingly taken in and cared for by our hosts. This touched us deeply and showed that even in frustrating moments there are glimmers of hope.

Caribbean coast of Costa Rica – Between bats, moldy rooms and spiritual healing

After a freezing night in Monteverde, we set off early for the Caribbean coast – once again, the drive took hours. We made a stop at the Hotel Los Rios to catch our breath and jump in the pool. Unfortunately, it was a disappointment: mold everywhere, aggressive behavior because of my mask exemption, and zero cooperation from the staff – but at least the pool was okay, and it was only one night.

The next day, finally: Caribbean air! After a fantastic lunch at a truck stop, we reached the sea. Our destination: the Lanna Ban Hotel, just outside Puerto Viejo. The resort, with its Balinese huts, pool, and proximity to the beach, was beautiful. We were woken by noise during the night – bats had paid us a visit and scattered their remains on the terrace. No problem for us, after all, in Costa Rica you're surrounded by nature – sloths, frogs, mosquitoes, and, yes, bats are all part of the experience.

 Directly opposite: a secluded black sand beach with howler monkeys in the trees – impressive, but not suitable for swimming due to the currents. Behind the hotel lies the Jaguar Rescue Center, a lovingly run wildlife hospital. Visitors only see animals there that can no longer be released back into the wild. A particularly positive point: Selfies with wild animals are prohibited in Costa Rica – a powerful message for animal welfare!

Another highlight was Cahuita National Park: entry by donation, lots of animals, and deserted beaches. We treated ourselves to a guide and saw capuchin monkeys, raccoons, and sloths up close. We only flew our drone where it was permitted – for us, that's also part of respectful travel.

A sad moment: During our stay, one of our cats died in Germany. In Manzanillo, we met a spiritual healer who performed a touching ritual with us on the beach – a quiet, powerful farewell.

Manzanillo itself: relaxed, not very touristy, an old shipwreck on the beach, good coffee, great restaurants, and an excellent bakery right across from the hotel. All within walking distance. A tip for anyone looking for something beyond mass tourism.

Conclusion: Costa Rica is not cheap – prices are like in Europe – but the experiences are priceless.

Last stop: San José – a mixed farewell to Costa Rica

We had planned to spend the last day of our trip relaxing in San José, even though we aren't typical city people. We had originally booked the Hotel Colonial, but upon arrival, everything was suddenly canceled due to Covid. After hours of driving, we spontaneously decided on the Crowne Plaza, as it was at least nearby.

Unfortunately, this hotel was absolutely not recommendable: For a multi-star establishment, the service was abysmal. Two porters watched my mother, who is over 70, carry her heavy suitcase up the stairs by herself – completely unacceptable. Apart from the junior waiter, the staff were unfriendly to the point of being rude. At least some things were resolved after a discussion with management.

Another downside: the air conditioning couldn't be turned off – the room felt like 15°C. Anyone staying there should definitely bring warm clothes. After our days in nature, the city itself was a stark contrast – crowded, loud, but also vibrant and culturally interesting. Those who enjoy cities will certainly find it worthwhile. For us, after our long road trip, it was a bit too much.

After a late checkout, we returned our rental car and drove to the airport. Goodbye, Costa Rica! An intense, contradictory, but definitely unforgettable trip came to an end.

My conclusion about the Costa Rica trip: A natural paradise with downsides

Costa Rica is an absolute dream in terms of scenery: rainforests, volcanoes, beaches, and an incredible diversity of flora and fauna – those who travel with open eyes will be amazed. There are also many culinary highlights, and the changeable climate is easily manageable with appropriate clothing.

 However beautiful the scenery is, our experience with the local people was ambivalent: in many places we encountered unfriendliness – quite unlike in countries such as Thailand, South Africa, or the Maldives. Furthermore, Costa Rica is not a cheap travel destination. Accommodation, entrance fees, food, and transport quickly add up, and given the often adventurous road conditions, you should definitely allow plenty of travel time and rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

 I would probably visit Costa Rica again – but next time I'd prefer to explore the Pacific coast. However, a return visit isn't currently at the top of my personal travel list. It was an impressive, intense trip with highs and lows – and many lasting memories.

Is Costa Rica too far away for you to start with? How about Corfu?