Experience the authentic Maldives: Guraidhoo and Ukulhas away from the resorts

Guraidhoo – Conservative, authentic, fascinating. Guraidhoo is a small, local island with a rather conservative character. There's only one official bikini beach; outside of it, women are expected to cover their shoulders and knees. We were lucky: our originally booked hotel was empty, so we got an upgrade to the "Seginy Seaview" – right on the beach. The room was simple but clean, breakfast okay but monotonous. But the whole week for two cost less than $500 USD – a real bargain.

The island is tiny – easily circumnavigated in 20 minutes – and you can see directly from one side to the other. Curries dominated the cuisine; the samosas were spicy but delicious. Some of our excursions were exclusive, as there were hardly any tourists – nowadays you usually share the boat with others.

Magical Animal Encounters: The morning in a nearby lagoon was unforgettable: Two pods of dolphins were frolicking there. When I jumped into the water, I couldn't keep up, but suddenly I heard the dolphins calling underwater – an incredibly moving experience. Then the unbelievable happened: A group of about 12 dolphins – with babies – swam in circles around me. I could have touched them, but of course I didn't. For me, it was a moment of pure respect and deep connection.

Later we encountered sea turtles, coral, and even an eagle ray. And on another excursion, which was actually dedicated to whale sharks (unfortunately without a sighting), we saw manta rays – majestic and elegant. Unfortunately, another tourist group was disrespectful, which annoyed us and especially Ali, our guide, a great deal.

A Touch of Karma On the last day, Ali took us – free of charge! – to a remote sandbank with an incredible reef. I saw three large reef sharks; one even brushed against me with its fin. Instead of panic, I felt a deep sense of calm. In the evening, we watched nurse sharks and rays feeding on fish scraps in the harbor – an intense end to this first week.

Ukulhas – Pure Sustainability and Relaxation.

 After a 90-minute, very bumpy boat ride, we reached Ukulhas – and I was immediately impressed. Everything is better organized: free drinking water in glass bottles, plenty of solar energy, and a conscious approach to waste. We stayed at the "Paguro Beach Inn" – modern, air-conditioned, with a balcony and free snorkeling equipment.

This week was pure beach vacation. Ukulhas is like a postcard: white sand, turquoise water, palm trees, hardly any people. The house reef is great for snorkeling, but be careful: the current can be strong at times.

Ukulhas Guraidhoo is also far ahead in terms of cuisine: more choice, better quality. We particularly loved a small restaurant next to the Hotel Ostrov – great atmosphere, wonderful people, delicious food. Lunch at the harbor, at Celeste's, with a view of a tree full of fruit bats, was also delightful.

From woman to woman

Resort? No thanks – Ukulhas, I'd go back anytime! Guraidhoo was impressive, but I often felt uncomfortable there as a woman – despite dressing appropriately. Ukulhas, on the other hand, was a place of freedom and ease, almost like paradise. Anyone wanting to experience the authentic island world of the Maldives on a budget should definitely consider Ukulhas.

Is all of that too exotic for you? Or do you much prefer city breaks? Then why not take a look at Rome?