Whale sharks, here we come...or something like that
Whale sharks, influencers and raccoons – our two weeks on Isla Holbox
My bestie and I are absolute water lovers – whether snorkeling, sailing, diving, or swimming, we love everything to do with the sea. So, right at the top of our bucket list was a very special highlight: swimming with whale sharks. After intensive research, we chose Isla Holbox in Yucatán – one of the few places where you can still encounter these gentle giants in a relatively sustainable way.
Two weeks all-inclusive on Holbox – not because we're traveling in luxury, but because it turned out to be the cheapest option in the end. The island is incredibly expensive. So: off to Mexico!
Arriving on Holbox – paradise, but loud
After a grueling Lufthansa flight (I'm telling you: it was a disaster!), we arrived in Cancún completely exhausted, but luckily we were picked up on time. A two-hour drive plus a half-hour ferry ride – and we were already on Isla Holbox. We had booked at the HM Paraiso del Mar – a well-maintained resort, a nice room, quick access to the beach, and mostly friendly staff. But even here, all that glitters is not gold.
Most tourists only come for a weekend and try to tick off as many items on their to-do list as possible in the shortest amount of time. The result: pure noise. Everyone rents a golf cart with a boombox, beach bars compete with each other – relaxation on the beach? Forget it. We ignored the loungers right on the beach. Instead, we preferred to stay in the back under the palm trees – less noise, more shade.
On the positive side: The nature on Holbox is simply breathtaking. Giant iguanas basked on the balcony, and at dinner we were regularly visited by a family of raccoons – especially cute when they very cautiously tried to steal something from our plates. An injured raccoon kept bothering me – unfortunately in vain, despite contacting the local veterinarian.
The hotel buffet was plentiful, but bland. The service? Initially abysmal. Only after a friendly chat with the head receptionist – one of the most professional and warmest people I've ever met in the hotel industry – did everything suddenly run smoothly. We're still in touch.
Whale shark tour with VIP holbox – between magic and crowds
The real reason for our trip: the whale sharks. After much comparison, we booked a tour with VIP Holbox – a bit more expensive, but with a focus on sustainability, environmental protection, and a good briefing. Our guide, Gustavo, was simply fantastic: warm, funny, and knowledgeable.
The tour started early in the morning. After a two-and-a-half-hour speedboat ride, we reached the area where the whale sharks surface – a truly breathtaking experience. Unfortunately, not all operators adhered to the rules: instead of the permitted number of boats, we found ourselves crammed into a small space with 80-100 others. The scene was chaotic and stressful at times – both for us and for the animals. Some tourists ignored the prohibitions and even touched the whale sharks – completely disrespectful.
On my second dive into the water, I was lucky enough to encounter a majestic whale shark. Over twelve meters long, it glided silently past me. A moment that puts everything into perspective – suddenly you feel very small, still, and in awe.
On the way back, we stopped at a secluded beach. Gustavo conjured up fresh ceviche, and we let the sun warm our skin – a perfect end to the day.
Note: Contrary to popular belief, there are no coral reefs, turtles, or dolphins around Holbox – mass tourism has driven away many animal species.
Chichen Itza and Cenotes
Chichen Itza & Cenotes – History up close
Since we tend to avoid crowds, we set off for Chichen Itza one morning at 4:30 a.m. – by ferry and then taxi. This was not only more flexible than a tour, but also almost as affordable. And: We arrived right when it opened at 8 a.m. – all alone with the pyramid and the rising sun. A truly magical moment!
The place has a very special energy. You can almost feel the echo of the past as you walk through the old walls. We left the complex at 11 a.m. – long queues had already formed at the ticket counters.
Afterwards, we continued on to two lesser-known cenotes near Valladolid (e.g., Cenote X'kekén). Tip: Instead of life jackets, simply use a life ring – it allows for more freedom of movement, especially for experienced swimmers.
In the cenote: silence. Only the dripping of water, crystal-clear blue, small fish all around. Magical – almost like a scene from a fantasy film. A little creepy when a cloud briefly drifted in front of the sun… horror movie atmosphere included.
After a little adventure with a French traveler (who even cooked for us later!), our day trip ended in the rain – tired, but happy.
Yalahau, Bird Island and Isla la Passion
Bird Island, Yalahau and Passion Island – a perfect ending
Just before our departure, we were determined to redeem our VIP voucher – naturally with Gustavo again. We booked a private half-day tour in the early morning – highly recommended to avoid the crowds.
First stop: Bird Island. The name says it all – countless birds line the wooden boardwalk, almost like a feathered welcoming committee. Pelicans, herons, cormorants – all gathered in one place. You stand still, observe, listen… a paradise for bird lovers and photographers.
From woman to woman
I think Isla is definitely worth a visit. You feel safe and there's a good range of options. However, if you're there for diving, you'll quickly discover that it's simply not possible. So perhaps Yucatan is a better choice. The way animals are treated could certainly be improved in some places, but sustainability is becoming an increasingly important issue there as well. I wouldn't want to spend two weeks there again, partly because it's relatively expensive, but I can highly recommend a few days.
Does your heart beat for exotic destinations? How about Tanzania?
