Santorini off the beaten track: My personal experience
In 2020, I took a ten-day trip to Santorini with an acquaintance—my climbing coach at the time. It was during the pandemic, with deserted beaches, affordable hotels, and an almost surreal tranquility on an island that is usually completely overrun with tourists. For me, it was the perfect opportunity to experience this postcard-perfect paradise—completely free of selfie-taking tourists and cruise ship traffic.
Arrival & Costs
Back then, flights, hotel, and rental car together cost around €550. There were only a few direct flights, but you could still reach your destination in just a few hours – and it was worth it. Many visitors come for just one day on a cruise ship, let donkeys carry them up the steep stairs, eat, take photos, and leave again in the evening. But Santorini has so much more to offer. And please: don't use donkeys for such tours – I'll explain why below.
The best time to travel to Santorini
Today, Santorini is as crowded as ever. Those seeking peace and quiet and genuine Greek hospitality should definitely travel outside of peak season. Spring and autumn, in particular, offer pleasant temperatures, empty streets, and lower prices.
Kamari: Dark beaches & cozy atmosphere
We stayed at the Hotel Narkissos in Kamari – breakfast was included and we had a small balcony overlooking blooming bougainvillea. The rooms were basic but clean, the breakfast was adequate, and the price-performance ratio was good.
Kamari beach consists of dark pebbles. Many hotels and bars rent out sun loungers and parasols, but you can also simply find a nice spot with your towel. Water shoes weren't necessary, and due to the pandemic, the beach was almost deserted.
One slightly annoying thing was the constant approach by restaurant staff along the promenade – that can get really tiring after a while. The Fistikies restaurant is highly recommended: lovely atmosphere, good food, and invitingly different from the rest. In the evenings, Kamari offers nice bars and small shops for browsing.
Pyrgos: Authentic, picturesque, peaceful
Pyrgos sits atop a hill and offers breathtaking panoramic views. Its narrow streets, white houses, and colorful doors look like something out of a picture book. Santorini, just as you'd imagine it!
Thanks to a tip from my diving instructor Roberto (from Navy Diving in Kamari), we discovered the restaurant Cava Alta – fantastic cuisine, not cheap, but worth every bite. The rooftop terrace offers breathtaking sunsets. During the day, a little shopping stroll through the winding streets is worthwhile. Just be aware that parking requires patience – or a small car, like the one we had.
Thira & Oia: Famous, overcrowded, but still worth seeing
Of course, we also visited Thira (Fira) and Oia (Ia). Both are places you know from countless Instagram posts – whitewashed houses, blue domes, narrow streets, upscale boutiques, and great food. Even though they're touristy, they're worth a visit. We were even surprised by a hidden pebble beach with a small vegan restaurant – a nice contrast to the usual sightseeing.
Activities
Santorini offers plenty of options for active vacationers as well as for those who simply want to relax on the beach with a cocktail. In Kamari, you'll find not only bars but also a diving school and opportunities for rock climbing. Elsewhere, you'll also find many activities, such as sailing. I took a half-day trip, including a barbecue on the boat at sunset, preceded by snorkeling – highly recommended. However, I would advise checking the group sizes beforehand for all activities, especially if you're looking for something quiet and authentic. There are boat tours on huge boats that feel more like mass tourism than a relaxing vacation. There's definitely something for everyone. Have a great time!
Animal welfare on Santorini – Please don't look away!
Two things are particularly important to me:
Please never use the donkeys to get up the stairs to Thira or Oia. Many of these animals are completely overworked, dehydrated, malnourished, and suffering in silence. Using them perpetuates animal suffering – and yes, that concerns you too. If you can walk, walk.
An experience that greatly marred my stay: During a walk off the beaten tourist track, we discovered a nailed-shut wooden box behind a house – inside was a puppy. Opposite: an aviary with caged cats. I learned that animals on the island are still sometimes used as bait for deep-sea fishing. For days, I tried to help, together with locals, the police, and animal rights activists. The animals were supposedly rescued – but to this day, I'm not entirely convinced.
When you visit Santorini, don't look away. Talk to locals, support animal welfare organizations, report suspicious activity. And only spend your money where animal suffering isn't part of the business model.
From woman to woman
Santorini is beautiful – if you see it with the right eyes. Those willing to look beyond the tourist facade will find breathtaking landscapes, warm-hearted people, and tranquil places brimming with magic. And those who travel responsibly can even contribute a small part to positive change. I never felt unsafe, so even as a woman, with a bit of intuition and common sense, this island is perfectly manageable.
Would a long-distance trip be more your thing? How about Isla Holbox?