Fez

The medina is very confusing, but definitely worth seeing. Even in mid-September, however, it was over 40 degrees Celsius, which you have to endure in the narrow alleyways. There's a wide range of goods and services, but somehow everyone is also pushy; a "no" is rarely accepted, and helpfulness is primarily for a price. Our riad, Bab jdid Dar, was lovely, but unfortunately not very hygienic. There was no parasol, which, in the heat, made staying there practically impossible, so we switched to a hotel with a pool, where it was much more bearable. Maison d'hôtes La Ferme Aziza

Chefchaouen

And the ordeal continues. A multi-hour journey in an un-air-conditioned, overcrowded tourist bus, during which your entire spine is jolted back into shape, is just the beginning. There are brief stops at scenic viewpoints, but of course, these are interspersed with numerous souvenir vendors who, unsurprisingly, are quite pushy. Naturally, I understand that everyone just wants to make a living, but the way they do it really rubbed me the wrong way. Then you arrive in sweltering heat, feeling slightly nauseous and with a headache, and have two hours to quickly dash around the city. Of course, the city is beautiful in principle, but I would have liked to stroll around at my leisure, have a relaxed lunch, etc., which unfortunately wasn't possible. In the evening, you're dropped off at a different location and then, much later than expected, find yourself wandering through Fez in the dark and hungry, trying to find dinner and your riad.

Ifrane and surroundings

Ifrane, the Atlas Mountains, and the surrounding area are scenically stunning. We were traveling independently, which allowed for some flexibility. However, in the mountains, you encounter things that are heartbreaking for any animal lover: spoiled Barbary macaques who have completely forgotten what normal behavior is; horses with sagging backs because influencers constantly want to be led through the cedar forest on horseback, all for the perfect photo; half-starved kittens without their mothers; emaciated dogs that are routinely chased away... so, again, definitely not my kind of place, unfortunately. If you can ignore all that, though, you can have a lovely picnic in the mountains, go for walks, and relax... with the occasional pushy monkey and souvenir vendor. I would definitely recommend bringing your own food and drinks, as there aren't really any options available.

Animal welfare and waste

Where do I even begin? Fez itself seems clean, apart from the medina. Outside, it's a nightmare. Everything is littered with garbage, and emaciated donkeys and cats scavenge for food. In the cities, people have realized they can make money from this, so they sell tourists expensive cat food to keep the poor cats from starving. These cats are kicked, pelted with stones, and so on. Dogs are a whole other story. Large segments of the population consider them demons, unclean, and dangerous. A "clean-up operation" is currently underway, meaning that around 3 million dogs are to be killed before the World Cup. In Ifrane, I met a dog who immediately stole my heart. Back in Germany, I did everything I could to save her, and I succeeded. Loki, just a few weeks old, had her fur skinned off her back and her tail cut off. Every day, dogs are shot, poisoned, donkeys are abandoned and left to die, and there are even rapes—all amidst mountains of garbage. Mila and Loki are with me today. Not everyone has to share my views, but for me, both the animal suffering and the garbage have made Morocco a place I will never visit again.

We even avoided the desert, since camels there are also sometimes mistreated and young desert foxes are captured so tourists can take photos. When the animals get bigger and are no longer easy to handle, they are often killed.

...from woman to woman

If you're a woman seeking safety, peace, and tranquility while traveling alone, Morocco isn't the country for you. Ultimately, so many things struck me as negative that I find it difficult to give positive feedback. Nevertheless, the landscape can certainly be appealing if you can overlook certain issues or if they aren't important to you personally. However, be vigilant when traveling alone, especially at night.